Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Stock.


My food and I come from good stock.  My mother, who is awesome, has taught me the values and life lessons that have made me the woman I am today. The most important lesson I have learned: always listen to your mother. Despite my residual teenage rebellious tendencies, I know (sometimes grudgingly) that she is always right (sigh... there is going to be no living with her now that I have openly admitted that lol).  So when my mommy says that she 'recommends' I write about how to make good stock because her friend has an ardent curiosity and she think it will be an interesting topic for most of my readers, I gotta listen. (Watch her be right (again) and this will be my most highly read post lol).

Blog readership aside, my mommy is right (of course) in her desire to spread the art of stock making.  A good stock, be it veal, chicken, beef or fish, is the basis for all good food (we aren't talking about boxed food people).  The quality of the stock used will determine the flavor, depth and consistency of your food.  Although my recent discovery that Swanson's makes stock, not just broth, thrilled me and my lazy side (don't tell my chef instructors), nothing can replace a fresh, homemade stock.

The Difference Between a Stock and a Broth:
No, it is not a good idea to use a broth when the recipe calls for a stock (yes, I felt you thinking about it). You will have a less flavorful product that might not be the right consistency, or might not even come out at all. The difference between the two: gelatin.  A stock is a clear liquid flavored by soluble substances extracted from bones, vegetable and seasonings. A broth is made with meat, not bones. Gelatin is extracted from the collagen in the bones and makes a good stock jump and jive like jello when it is cold. A broth can't even come close to a stock's rhythm.   Stock is much more flavorful than broth and provides a distinctive mouth feel.


Stock Uses:
Everything.  Next topic...

No, really. Stocks are used is most dishes and sauces.   You use stock to braise, make soups, flavor rice dishes, flavor vegetables, etc... In most recipes that call for water, a good stock will help you kick it up a notch.  One key component about a stock is that it can be reduced to intensify the flavor. Reduction evaporates the liquid while concentrating and infusing the flavor with the other ingredients and thickening the final product.

Seven Principles of Stock Making:
While not quite up there with the 10 Commandments, the Seven Principles of Stock Making are important rules to follow if you want to make good stock.
  1. Use cold water to start, not hot
  2. Simmer, never boil.  Boiling will make the stock cloudy because it emulsifies the fat
  3. Skim the scum off the top frequently
  4. Strain carefully when complete through a china cap and/or chinois (dropping the stock)
  5. Cool quickly in an ice bath (put the stock pot in the sink, surround with ice and stir.  Must get below 70 F within 2 hours and below 35 F within 6 hours.  Do not put directly in the refrigerator.  It will not get cold fast enough and may spoil other foods by warming up the internal temp of the refrigerator).
  6. Store and label in the refrigerator
  7. Defat the top before using
Types of Stock:
Stocks come in 2 main varieties: brown and white.  The difference is that the bones and mirepoix for brown stock are browned in the oven and are not in white stock.  They worked with Captain Obvious to come up with those titles.  The younger the animal, the more gelatin there is in the bones and the better the stock will be.  That is why veal stock is usually preferred to beef stock.  There are also specialty stocks, such as lobster stock.


Making Stock:
Stocks follow the simple ratio of 5 qts water to 5 lbs of bones to 1 lb of mirepoix.  Besides any aromatic herbs you would like to add, such as thyme, parsley or bay leaf, a stock only has those three ingredients.  You can scale the amounts up or down, depending on how much stock you would like to make.  The mirepoix ratio is 50% onion to 25% celery to 25% carrots.  If you are making white stock and want it to be truly light in color, you should use the mirepoix ratio of 25% leeks to 25% onion to 25% celery to 25% parsnips.

White Stock Process:
Most likely chicken or veal
  1. Add bones to large stockpot and cover with cold water just to the top of the bones
  2. Bring to a boil and then turn down to a simmer
  3. Skim the scum off the top
  4. Add the mirepoix
  5. Simmer for time specified below 
  6. Skim regularly
  7. Cool down in ice bath
  8. Refrigerate
  9. Defat the top
  10. Enjoy :-) 
Brown Stock Process:
Most likely veal or beef
  1.  Roast bones in a single layer in a 450° F oven until browned
  2. Transfer bones to stockpot and deglaze roasting pan with water (use water to loosen the drippings off the bottom of the pot).  Add deglaze to stock pot
  3. Cover bones with cold water just to the top of the bones
  4. Roast the mirepoix until brown.  Brush with tomato paste and roast until paste turns a rust color
  5. Skim scum off top of stock
  6. Add mirepoix
  7. Simmer for time specified below
  8. Skim regularly
  9. Cool down in ice bath
  10. Refrigerate
  11. Defat the top
  12. Enjoy :-) 
*Note:  You can use the stock right after making it, but be aware that it will contain a lot of fat.  If you cool and refrigerate first, it will be much easier to take the fat off becuase it floats and solidifies on the top.  Be warned: it looks gross.

Depending on the types of bones you use, you will need to cook the stock for a certain length of time.  Please note that you do not start the time until after you have skimmed the scum for the first time and added the mirepoix.  While the times below are general guidelines, most chefs prefer to cook beef, veal and chicken for a longer time, up to approximately 24 hours.

·         Beef Bones: 8-10 hours
·         Veal Bones: 6-8 hours
·         Chicken Bones: 3-4 hours
·         Fish bones: 30-45 minutes
·         Vegetable: 45 minutes

So there you have it: the art of stock making.  I know that it is a lot and may seem a bit complicated, so if you have questions, feel free to comment in the comment section of this post.  I pray that you are successful in your stock making endeavours and if you know my mom, be sure to thank her for this post :-)

Make good stock, cook good food, and stay blessed TCP Friends!

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